Air Conditioner Repair Checklist
1. AC Won’t Turn On
There can be several explanations why your AC unit won’t start: a tripped circuit breaker, wrong thermostat settings, a switched off switch or a full condensate drain pan.
Triggered Circuit Breaker
Your air conditioner won’t run when you have an overloaded breaker.
To see if one has gotten overloaded, find your residence’s main electrical panel. You can locate this silver fixture on the wall in the basement, garage or closet.
- Make sure your hands and feet are free of moisture before you touch the panel or breakers.
- Find the breaker labeled “AC” and make sure it’s in the “on” spot. If it’s triggered, the switch will be in the in between or “off” location.
- Quickly transfer the breaker back to the “on” position. If it instantaneously trips again, don’t touch it and call us at 775-230-7628. A switch that keeps flipping could indicate your home has an electrical problem.
Wrong Thermostat Settings
If your thermostat isn’t telling your equipment to run, it won’t switch on.
The first point is checking it’s on “cool” and not “heat.” Otherwise your AC will probably not switch on. Or you may have hot air blowing from vents since the furnace is going instead.
If you have a digital thermostat:
- Replace the batteries if the monitor is clear. If the monitor is presenting jumbled letters, replace the thermostat.
- Make sure the correct setting is on the display. If you can’t update it, override it by dropping the temperature and pushing the “hold” button. This will cause your AC to run if scheduling is wrong.
- Try setting the thermostat 5 degrees cooler than the room’s temperature. Your AC won’t start if the thermostat is identical to the room’s temperature.
Once your thermostat is calibrated accurately, you should start getting refreshing air promptly.
If you rely on a smart thermostat, like one produced by Nest, Ecobee, Lux, Honeywell or Bosch, look at the manufacturer’s website for help. If it still won’t work, contact us at 775-230-7628 for help.
Your cooling equipment typically has a shut-down switch by its outdoor unit. This switch is generally in a metal box mounted on your home. If your air conditioner has recently been repaired, the lever may have accidentally been left in the “off” location.
Overflowing Condensate Drain Pan
Condensate drain pans hold the additional condensation your equipment takes out of the air. This pan can be positioned either below or in your furnace or air handler.
When there’s an obstruction or clogged drain, water can accumulate and prompt a safety setting to stop your air conditioner.
If your pan involves a PVC pipe or drain, you can clear the surplus liquid with a special pan-cleaning tab. You can buy these tablets at a home improvement or hardware store.
If your pan includes a pump, look for the float switch. If the mechanism is “up” and there’s liquid in the pan, you may need to get a new pump. Reach us at 775-230-7628 for support.
2. AC Blows Warm Air
If your air conditioner is working but not delivering cold air, its airflow may be clogged. Or it could not have enough refrigerant.
Your unit’s airflow can be restricted by a plugged air filter or dirty condenser.
How to Put in a New Your Air Filter
A filthy filter can cause countless problems, such as:
- Reduced airflow
- Icy refrigerant lines or evaporator coil
- Inconsistent cooling
- Larger cooling expenses
- Making your system wear out more quickly
We recommend changing flat filters every four weeks, and creased filters every three months.
If you can’t recall when you last installed a new one, switch off your system totally and take out the filter. You can find the filter in your furnace or air pump’s blower compartment. It could also be situated in an attached filter case or wall-mounted return air grille.
Tilt the filter up to the light. If you see a lot of dust, you certainly should get a new one.
5 Tips on Cleaning Your Air Conditioning Unit
Brush, grass and leaves can block your condensing unit. This can restrict its airflow, lower its energy efficiency and affect your comfort. Here’s a way you can get your equipment working smoothly again.
- Switch off the electrical current fully at the breaker or outdoor lever.
- Get rid of yard waste around the AC. Once you’ve gotten rid of all the debris within a two-foot range, you can use a fine-bristled brush or vacuum to slowly clean the condenser fins. Bent fins can also impact efficiency, so you can attempt to straighten them with a small knife.
- Lift off the top of your air conditioner and pull out any leaves or yard waste that has accumulated. Then wipe down the condenser fan with a wet cloth.
- Use a hose nozzle to gingerly take off dirt on the fins from inside the system. Be careful to avoid getting moisture on the fan motor.
- Install the top again and restore the power.
When cooling equipment doesn’t have ample refrigerant, they’ll struggle to remove heat and humidity from the air.
Here are a couple of flags that your equipment is seeping refrigerant:
- It takes too long to cool your residence and you’re regularly turning down the thermostat.
- Cooling moving through the ducts isn’t as cold as it should be.
- You’re hearing whistling or gurgling racket when cooling works.
- Your evaporator coil is frozen as a result of having difficulty absorbing warmth.
Suspect your system is seeping refrigerant? You need a authorized heating and cooling service professional to repair the leak and refill the right measurement of refrigerant in your system. Reach us at 775-230-7628 for assistance.
3. AC Not Blowing Enough Air
When it seems like you’re not receiving adequate amounts of cold air, there’s usually a clog or detachment inside your air conditioning system.
- The initial place is checking your air filter. Get a new one if it’s filthy.
- Then ensure the vents are open around your house.
- If you’re still not getting enough chilled air, you should have your duct system checked by a specialist like Anderson Heating & A/C. Your ductwork may need to be repaired or reconnected in limited space locations like your attic, basement or crawl space.